Two continents and an ocean


It has been quite a while since my last post. I would like to blame slow internet and lack of time but it is actually due to laziness and unwillingness to write. Sorry about that.

I am currently in Chaguaramas, Trinidad. Arkona II is on the hard for the second time since my last post. This time it is for long term storage. Just outside Chaguaramas I crossed my own path which means I have sailed around the world. I will fly from here to Sweden. Arkona II is now for sale so let me know if you are interested in buying her.

After my last post I received the cylinder heads on Reunion and left for South Africa as soon as I had put the engine back together. There was talk about tropical storms developing so even though we did not have a lot of wind we decided that it was better to make a little bit of distance than to stay and make no distance. It did not go too bad. It took us 19 days to sail about 1500nm which is slow but we did not end up in any really bad weather. At one point we had around 30 knots of wind from behind with quite big waves but averaged 3.5 knots. This was just south of Madagascar where the current is not supposed to be eastbound. It was however and also the hull was very dirty. Considering how much time people spent talking about weather windows when leaving Reunion we thought it might get rough at some point. But it did not. The last day before arriving in Durban was a bit worrying though. In the morning I got a weather update from my father saying it would be northeasterly winds for a few days. When approaching the Aghulas current that is exactly what you want. The “freak waves” that can occur there are due to the strong southbound current with strong southwesterly winds. Apparently the waves can get up to 20 meters high and be very much like a wall. In the afternoon the barometer and the turning of the wind told us that there might be a southwest gale coming. I contacted my father again and the forecast said that it was supposed to be southwesterly winds until morning. Not to strong but up to 25 knots. This would not have been a problem if it was not for the fact that we were in the area where the Aghulas is supposed to be strongest. The exact area we did not want to be in. It is at the 200m contour line. We had around 3 knots of current when the wind started changing so it was good but we decided not to closer to shore in case the current was stronger there. It turned out fine and we sailed downwind (pointing north) with only a bit of genoa and still made it south by a couple of knots. In the morning the wind turned back and we headed for Durban again. Only problem was that we went to close to land and managed to find the counter-current which is northbound. So just like the whole Indian Ocean we were going very slowly.

Being so late we though the marina in Durban would be empty. It was full. There had not been a good weather window to go from Durban to East London in three weeks. Most yachts that we had seen on Reunion were still in Durban. We had to anchor which was not very nice because we had winds of up to 40 knots from southwest sometimes and the anchorage was not protected from that direction. Fortunately we had good holding and could spend Christmas ashore with the other sailors. It was nice.

Pierre signed off in Durban and I did not have another crew coming to join me. Durban to East London is not the best leg to start sailing alone. Fortunately a French boat named Amasia with four young guys arrived just before New Year. They are the first people to sail around the world with an electric engine. Check out Eco Sailing Project if you are interested. Since they were having two guests joining them to Cape Town two of their crew (Pierre and François) decided to help me out instead. I also tagged along for a trip to see the wildlife of South Africa. It was awesome. We saw the big five and some other nice animals. Rhinos are fat. Hippos are fatter.

We left Durban on a Monday. The plan was to go to Port Elisabeth in one go but we did not make in the weather window we had. We did about 10-11 knots most of the way because of the Aghulas current so I can see why southwesterly winds should be avoided. We stopped in East London for a couple of days instead. East London was not a very nice place. It was even more segregated than Durban. And Durban was bad. The people at the marina office in Durban sent us to a mall to go to an ATM. It took about 15 minutes by taxi and there were only white people there. There was an ATM just across the street from the marina but they did not consider it safe. There was also a kind of police station just next to the marina so I have a hard time believing anyone would try anything in that area. However, the white women working in the marina office gave me the impression that they would not get out of their car with black people around. And East London seemed worse.

The good thing about East London was that I managed to buy 10 liters of antifouling for about 100 euro. In Reunion they sold 7.5 liters for 700 euro.

After East London we had a long window which took us all the way to Cape Town. We had a really nice trip and no funny business past Cape Aghulas or around Cape of Good Hope. It was really nice getting back in the Atlantic Ocean. The first day in the Atlantic was more exciting than the whole Indian Ocean. We saw whales, seals and lots of fish and birds. I did not see one whale in the entire Indian Ocean. I can understand the whales though because the Indian Ocean sucks.

When we approached Cape Town the wind started picking up. We arrived in the afternoon which is not recommended. The last five miles we had gusts of up to 60 knots. The plan was to go to Royal Cape Yacht Club (RCYC) but when we entered the second harbor basin we stopped moving forward. Fortunately we got directed to V&A marina where the wind was not as strong. Since I knew there were small swing bridges involved in getting there I was very sceptic. I also knew we would have the wind from the side when passing them. It turned out OK anyway and we got a well-deserved beer before the sun set.

In Cape Town I hauled out to clean the hull. The crane in RCYC broke down quite often and when it worked the wind was usually too strong for them to operate it. This meant it took a couple of weeks extra to get it done. With 20 cm to go when Arkona II was going back into the water, the crane broke down again. After a few hours they decided to cut the slings.

I had a very good time in Cape Town. Together with Pierre and François I walked up to and across Table Mountain. We also went to Robben Island to see the prison were Nelson Mandela was held.

I cleared out on a Friday. I was going to leave on Saturday but then I met the people on Obelisk and Miramis. I met Jesse on Obelisk in Cocos Keeling but I had only heard of Miramis and “the other Swedish guy”. The Swedish guy was Conny and he is sailing with his Japanese wife Mai. Jesse was accompanied by James and Natalia (who I also met in Cocos) and his father Herb. Instead of leaving on Saturday I got delayed until Monday.

I and Miramis left at the same time heading for St. Helena. It started out fine for the first night. After that I managed to get two waves straight on the laptop I use for navigation and break my two autopilots within two days. After spending a whole night trying to fix the autopilots I took down the sails and went to sleep. When I slept I still had to get up every 15-20 minutes to look for ships. Fortunately I found the problem with my main autopilot after a few hours of sleep. When I took my spare autopilot apart two electronic components fell out from the control unit.

Contrary to what I thought would happen I did not start talking to myself for several days. I did however talk a lot to the waves, autopilots and assorted deities. Often in a loud voice with words I should not repeat here.

Sailing on my own was fairly easy. A lot of times along the way we have had inexperienced crew so I was used to do most of the stuff alone. The watch keeping was the only thing I was a bit worried about. The AIS does not work properly (it sometimes stops sending) and I do not have the battery capacity to use the radar all night. I started out sleeping 15 minutes at a time. Getting up to check for ships and checking the wind. I thought this would be very exhausting and my backup plan was to start the engine for a few hours now and then so I could use the radar. This was never necessary. After a few nights I started sleeping for 20 minute intervals instead. Mostly because there was no traffic and when there was a ship I could see it for more than 20 minutes before it got close. I still thought I would get tired after a while but I felt good after about 8-10 hours of sleep every day.

It took 15 days to St. Helena. It was a nice trip. I did not go insane.

St. Helena is very relaxed and calm compared to Cape Town which was very welcome. The people are very friendly. It was nice to get back to the island mentality where everyone says “hi” and wave to each other on the street.

I arrived on St. Helena just a day after Miramis so I spent a lot of time with them. The water was really clear and warm compared to South Africa so we did a lot of snorkeling. We also went to see the house Napoleon spent his last years in and of course the tomb where he was buried.

The highlights of St. Helena were the whale sharks. I have been looking forward to swimming with these massive creatures for the whole trip. We had the luck of seeing two of them. One stayed with us for the whole time we were there. According to the experts it was 8 meters long. It was quite hard to keep up with her pace even though she barely moved her body. Amazing creatures.

Once again I cleared out on a Friday. Once again Obelisk arrived and I did not leave until Monday. We know now who the “evil companions” are.

The leg to Salvador took 16 days and was fairly uneventful. I did not catch a single fish. I had a big marlin on the hook but I lost it. I also had a small mahi-mahi that I managed to release (it was too small) but I did not catch a single fish.

The weather was steady and nice.

Arriving in Salvador felt good. A new continent and having crossed an ocean by myself. Clearing in was not fun though. Since I arrived at around 07:00 I thought I would be able to clear in before lunch. The taxi driver dropped me off at the customs office instead of immigration which I did not realize. The people working there saw that I needed to go to immigration but they did not speak English. I had to wait 30 minutes before a women arrived who could tell me to go the right office. I walked for about 10 minutes and then asked a security guard for directions. He sent me back the way I came. I found another place to ask. They sent me past the first place. Then I got sent back again. This time to a fourth place. They tried to send me in the other direction again. I almost gave up but went back to the customs office. They drew me a map. I went to that place (which was the second place I visited before). They sent me on to the first place I visited. The security guard I first talked to let me in and showed me to the immigration office. I had been walking back and forth for 1 hour 45 minutes. In the sun. I should also mention that you have to wear pants and proper shoes when you visit these places. After immigration I went back to customs. They had lunch. For 2.5 hours. The cold beer I had after that was one of the best ever. I have never heard of anyone else having problem clearing in but they gave me a hard time.

I had a really good time in Salvador. Obelisk arrived (surprisingly since they were not going to Brazil when I last talked to them). Two of my cousins (Sebastian and Filip) arrived the day after Obelisk. We all went to Morro de Sao Paulo with the boats which was awesome.

We also met a Swedish guy named Göran who took me and my cousins fishing with his boat. We did not have any luck with the fishing but we had a lot fun.

When everyone had left I stayed for a couple of more weeks, enjoying some time in Salvador and on Itaparica with some new friends.

The plan was to leave for the Azores as soon as my cousins flew home. Since I realized I would not be back in Sweden until August I changed my plan. Coming back after the summer would be very depressing and I was a bit tired of sailing. So I changed the plan and sailed to Trinidad instead. After all, the goal was to complete my circumnavigation, not sail to Sweden. This gave me some more time to enjoy Brazil.

I left Salvador with the intension of going straight to Trinidad. It was about 2500 nautical miles. Since the start was quite easy I ended up doing as planned. It took 22 days. There was quite a lot of rain but no rough weather. I also caught a few nice mahi-mahi which was good for my self-esteem.

It does not feel very special to have sailed around the world. Most of the people that I have met the past year have also done it by now. What does feel good though is to actually finishing something that was started 5 years ago.

I will try to write another post when I have been home for a while. However, considering how lazy. I am when it comes to this blog, I would not hold my breath.

Finally I would like to thank everyone who has helped along the way. Especially my parents and my sister and her family. Without them I would never have made it this far.Thanks everyone!

Here are the pictures:


Hyena. Injured. Looks like a broken leg.


Rhinos. Two of them, not a two headed one.


Giraffe. It is eating.


Lioness. They are larger in real life.


Cape Aghulas. You can see where the Atantic Ocean starts right?


Cape of Good Hope


Cape Town with Table Mountain behind.


The flat part of Table Mountain.


View from over Cape Town.


Cape Town from the Cableway.


Nelson Mandelas cell.


Cape Town again.


Arkona II in the air.


Dirty girl.


Worn rudder shaft bushings. The noice it made was soul crushing.


New bushings. Stuff of heaven!


Arkona II with red hull.


So close! Crane broke with 20cm to go.


St. Helena!


View over anchorage.


Jamestown from behind.


House of Napoleon.


Napoleon’s house.


Inland St. Helena.


The first tomb of Napoleon.


Napoleon parrotfish.?


Snorkeling in St. Helena.


Boxfish. Quite boxy.


Big fish.


Same big fish (8m whale shark).


Christian and big fish.


Same Christian with same big fish.








Also Salvador.


Tourists in a Church.


Sightseeing in Salvador.


The marina from up high.


Mahi-mahi caught between Salvador and Trinidad.


Trinidad, almost there…


On mooring in Chaguaramas. World circumnavigated!


Arkona II back on the hard in Coral Cove.


Indian Ocean


It has been a while since we left Bali (more han three months) and we have now reached Reunion. That means we have travelled approximately 4000 nautical miles. We have been to Christmas Island, Cocos Keeling, Chagos, Rodrigues, Mauritius and now Reunion. A lot has happened and I will try to summarise every leg and every place as best as I can. There will be a lot of pictures.



After preparing for a long time away from cheap supermarkets we tried to clear out. That did not go very well. Pierre did not get a visa when he arrived on Bali even though he told the immigration at the airport that he was leaving by boat. The immigration officer I tried to clear out with told me that Pierre had to leave Indonesia and then come back to get a visa upon arrival. He seemed very certain that Singapore would be the best place to go. Eventually he said I could try and talk to immigration at the airport. At this time Pierre and Elin where bying the last of the supplies at the supermarket so I had to go get Pierre and head to the airport.

At the airport we managed to go through security and customs to immigration for arrivals without any problem. I think they were a bit confused about us walking the wrong way. Anyhow, the immigration officer almost gave Pierre a visa until he got confused as to why Pierre had a stamp to Indonesia but not out. He called his boss and the boss said no. The only way to get the visa was to leave and come back again.

We decided to go back to immigration in the harbour and bribe them. They where not there unfortunately and would not come back until the next day. The problem was that my visa expired the next day so if bribing would not work I would be illegal before Pierre would have made it out and back again. So back to the airport we went.

We tried for quite a while to book a cheap last minute ticked to Darwin witch would have been quickest. When we did not find any availible tickets we tried to Malaysia and other parts of Australia but Pierre ended up spending a night in Singapore.

The next day when Pierre arrived we went to clear out. That took a long time. We had to go to immigration, quarantine, the navy, customs and the port captain. All of them in different places, some of them close to eachother but that did not help since they had to be visited in a certain order. We did however clear out that day.

When we left, with an overhauled engine, we managed to make an astounding 1.8 knots out of the harbour. No wind and no current either. I knew the propeller was dirty but I did not want to go into the water of Serangan to clean it. Everytime I went into that water I got sick and all my cuts got infected. Fortunately we made it out and could start sailing right away.


Christmas Island

The trip to Christmas Island was fairly easy. Since the crew was new and the wind was good (ca 20 knots from behind) we sailed mostly with only head sail. We averaged more than 4 knots anyway.

The autopilot broke before we arrived so we spent one night steering manuallly wich was good practice for Pierre and Elin. I fixed it with rope the next day though.

Once we got close to Christmas Island Pierre woke me up and told me he thought someone was calling us on the VHF. I asked if there was any ship around. He said no and then looked out. Then he said ”actually there is one just next to us”. It was an Australian warship (wich is what they called themselves on the VHF) and they were looking for illegal immigrants.They did not turn on their navigation lights until they were really close wich is why we did not see them. They then asked us for our names and passport numbers.

A little while later we got called up again for names and passport numbers. This time it was the coast guards ship. Since we arrived at night we had to drift until morning. Then the coast guard ship called us again, asking the exact same questions.

We ended up in The Pub later on where Pierre got married. I conducted the ceremony in Swedish.

We stayed for about one week and to summarise, they have a lot of crabs.


Cocos Keeling

Next stop was Cocos Keeling. It is a really nice place and we were escorted all the way from the entrance of the atoll to the anchorage at Direction Island by dolphins.

There were a lot of other yachts here wich was nice.

We did a lot of diving, snorkeling and spearfishing. We also managed to play some beer golf with the local people. The golf course crosses the runway at the airport wich was quite nice. After the golf we spend the night sleeping at the beach due to lack of hotels. It rained. A lot.

Cocos Keeling is a really nice place.



The trip to Chagos started out quite nice but after around 1200 nm there was a calm. It lasted for a week. The forecasts said we should have around 8-12 knots of wind during the calm. We did, but only for about 15-20 minutes every day during squalls. Quite frustrating when you have 300 nm to go and not enough fuel to make any difference by motoring.

We arrived after 23 days at sea with around  two whole days of motoring.

The clearing in was easy. There was a patrol boat in Salomon Islands when we arrived and we cleared in before we even dropped the anchor.

The patrol boat were towing away two illegal fishing vessels wich were left in the atoll. According to the clearance officer the fishing vessels were changing crew and the new crew could arrive during our stay in the atoll.

The patrol boat left with the fishing vessels the same day we arrived so we were completely alone for the rest of our stay.

We had a lot of fun exploring the islands and waters of Salomon Islands. There is a lot of fish in the atoll. And they are big. I have never seen so many parrot fish at one time for example. Spearfishing would have been to easy so it was probably good that it was not allowed.

There is also a beached wreck of an 80 foot catamaran in the atoll with parts scattered across a wide area. There was one propeller left. It is not there anymore. It was like a huge puzzle. So that was fun.

We were planning on staying a day or two longer than our permit allowed and do some diving (not allowed either) but unfortunately the patrol boat came back to check that we left on time.

When we heaved anchor in Salomon Islands we had good easterly wind but as soon as we left the wind died. Because of this we did get the opportumity to han behind the boat and snorkel a bit at the Great Chagos Reef as we went past.



Before Cocos Keeling I did not know about Rodrigues. I saw on my Navionics app that there was something west of Mauritius and that I should probably download a detailed chart for that area so as not to hit anything. In Cocos Keeling though, everyone was talking about it. They also said that you do not go from Chagos to Rodrigues because it is too rough. Jimmy Cornell on the other hand says you can and so we did.

We did have slight headwind almost all of the way but it was not really rough. When we arrived people still said that you do not go from Chagos to Rodrigues. Apparantely they were wrong.

We had three threads broken one one shroud when we arrived though.

Since we forgot to google Rodrigues before we left Cocos Keeling we had no idea what to expect. We thought there might be a few thousand inhabitants but there is around 40 000.

Just as we anchored a Canadian guy named Jim came with his dinghy and gave us oranges and baguettes wich made this arrival the best so far. Thanks Jim!

After clearing in we had to leave the anchorage (along with the other 6 other yachts because a cargo ship was leaving. Apparently this happened every three days or so. Since the quay was now empty it was possible to go alongside when re-entering the harbour. There was a race. We lost. Fortunately we could anchor really close to the dinghy dock.

We only spent three days in Rodrigues but got some nice meals (steak, hamburger and pizza) and saw most of the island it by motorbike.

Eling Bäck signed off on Rodrigues because she had been sea sick most of the time from Bali. She did her watch everyday anyway and fought real hard during her time on Arkona II. I am impressed by her stubbornness.



We arrived in Mauritius during night and had to anchor outside the harbour until morning. I feel that this post is getting a bit boring so I wanted to remind you that there are pictures further down. The boat stayed in Port Louis during our time on Mauritius but we rented a car and saw some nice places.

Mauritius is the first place on this trip that I have visited before so we went to Pereybere (close to Grand Baie) to see the hotell I satyed at in 2009 and it was still there. So were all the bars and restaurants so it was a weird experience.

We also met a guy named Hervé Laurent who helped us with the broken shroud. He is a famous sailor in France.



There were  8 boats leaving Mauritius the same day as us. Again there was a race and again we lost. We arrived during the night in Le Port and since the other boats had already arrived they helped us in through a tricky channel to the marina. Thanks Chris, Susan, Will and Sid on Yindee Plus.

We were going to haul the boat out in Le Port because the bearings for the rudder shaft are very worn. It makes a noice everytime the pressure of the water changes sides on the rudder. When sailing down wind this happens twice every wave and the noice can be heard all the way to the forward cabin. It is very annoying. But since it they were not sure they could fix it and it is very expensive to buy bottom paint in Reunion (800 Euros) we decided to wait.

We stayed in Le Port for around a week because I had to order a new drive unit for our Raymarine ST4000 tiller pilot. We had two old ones but the screws of those are too worn so they both started to seize. Our spare atopilot (Simrad TP22) took us from Mauritius to Reunion though. Although there are two newer models than the ST4000 the drive unit is exactely the same. Wich means we now have two spare motors, two spare (but a bit worn) bearings and two gears.

Since we were only going to wait for a good weather window and there is nothing going on in Le Port we decided to go to St Pierre. A short while after we left I saw the cooling water temperature rising so I stopped the engine and found that there was no cooling water. We made our way to St Gilles, were they have really nice mooring buys after realising that it was an internal leak of the cooling water. St Gilles is a really nice place and we could take the dinghy for a pub crawl.

The next day we decided to head on for St Pierre. We had to fill cooling water every 20 minutes when the engine was running.

Now we are in St Pierre and we had the cylinder heads pressure tested. Turned out they were both leaking between exhaust and cooling water. My dad (who always helps me when there is problem with the engine) talked to Volvo Penta and they had an engine for sale. Only it was an MD17 (the 3-cylinder version). It was supposed to have the same cylinder heads but it did not. We did not realise this until the cylinder heads were on there way to Reunion. At this time there was a tropical storm closing in on us so we wanted to leave as soon as possible. We could not.

Volvo Penta did send the right cylinder head gaskets (wich of course would not fit with the cylinder heads on the engine they sent) wich is a bit confusing. When my father told them about the situation they sent a new engine for free. This time a MD11D wich is not the same as ours (we have MD11C) but since my father sent pictures I know that the cylinder heads will fit. We are still waiting for the wrong cylinder heads wich means we will be here for a while still. Fortunately the tropical storm went somwhere else.

Hopefully we will be in Durban or some other South African city the next time I post on this blog.

Enjoy the pictures!

New crew and an old engine

The new crew has arrived with the latest addiotions being Elin Bäck from Sweden and Pierre Lemonnier from France. Seeing as we now have an international crew I will write the posts in english. Since our non-swedish speaking followers have had to use Google Translate up until now, and swedish people usually handle english quite well, I believe this should work for everyone. If you have any complaints you can always read another blog.

Anyway, Arkona II has stayed in one place since the 25th of June wich is a new record since we left Sweden. A lot has happened though, without making any distance. I had my family visiting and they brought a lot of spare parts for our beloved engine (VP MD11) and also some swedish candy. So not only have I had a nice time away from the boat but I also had a lot of help from my father with the overhauling of the engine.

The engine has been in poor condition for a while now with symptoms such as diesel in the lubrication oil and a lot of black smoke in the exhausts. It has been in what you call ”limp-home mode” since Bitung, wich is a couple of months. The problem is that, unless you can stay for more than a month at the same place, it is impossible to get spare parts. Alongside this problem we also had some stowaways in the form of bedbugs. They arrived in Palau and due to lack of of exterminators we could not get rid of them until here on Bali. And they thrived onboard. As soon as the exterminators had been here though, we got a rat. The rat outsmarted me for several nights before I finally caught it in a trap. A tip for other sailors is to teach your crew not to leave their bags open while ashore. And also to get their stuff laundered if they have stayed in a place that has bedbugs. When I caught the rat I was the only one left on the boat wich was boring but I could finally get some work done on the boat. It only lasted a couple of days though before my family arrived.

My parents and sister, accompanied by her husband and two children, arrived in the middle of July and stayed until the end of said month. The first week was spent on Gili Trawangan and the second in Sanur, on Bali. I was a bit tired of the boat and the surroundings of the mooring (with dirty water and even dead dogs floating around the dinghy dock) so it was quite welcomed to spend some time in a hotel, with a real bed as the higlight. Hot water shower and AC are other things I have not seen too much of the past two years. The best part was of course hanging with my family wich I have not seen in 1.5 years. When they left I actually felt a bit home sick. That is the first time since I left Sweden.

Since my father brought all the spare parts for the engine he decided that he would help me out. I did not have a say in it. So the second week of their vacation we spent three days on the boat and one day grinding valves poolside. Without his help it would have taken at least ten days so I was quite happy.

We did not know the source of all the problems we had but damaged or worn piston rings was a qualified guess. What we found was one siezed piston ring, piston rings in the wrong position (we did not even know that they had been changed), leaking fuel injection valves (the only major engine service they can provide on Bali is testing the opening pressure of fuel injection valves) and intake- and exhaust valves in extremely poor condition.

Among the spares that my father brought were new piston rings and new nozzles for the fuel injection valves. Unfortunately one of the nozzles was broken, even though it was new, so I had to wait for my father to get home before he could send another one. We did however get the engine running with one old nozzle and it was a big improvement. If done in Sweden though, I would have had new valves and valve seats but in Indonesia you have to suffice with what you can do yourself. We spent more than seven hours grinding the valves and seats so it is still an improvement.

Other things I have done on the boat includes new spray hood, repaired main sail and maintenance on the sink.

With the new crew here we have bought provisions for the crossing of the Indian Ocean. We will leave on friday for Christmas Island. The new crew seems a lot more excited than I am used to so it will probably work out perfect.

Enjoy the pictures!





More chess

More chess



Grimdimg valves at the pool

Grindimg valves at the pool



New crew

New crew

Family again

Family on Arkona II





Dad on vacation

Dad on vacation



Siezed piston ring

Siezed piston ring

Worn piston

Worn piston

Exhaust valve

Exhaust valve

Valve seat

Valve seat

Valve seat but a little bit better

Valve seat but a little bit better

Ett stort tack


Ja, då var det bara några timmar kvar tills mitt flyg som ska ta mig till Afrikas kontinent och startlinjen på ett nytt äventyr.

Jag vill passa på att tacka, alla läsare som följt oss troget genom våra äventyr, vänner som stöttat oss och hjälpt till att göra det möjligt för oss att segla våra kära Arkona II. Sedan vill jag tacka sponsorer som hjälpt oss med utrustning och pengar. Det hade inte varit möjligt utan er. Fortsätt följ Arkonas och Christians äventyr här på bloggen och fortsätt kommentera, det tycker vi är kul!!!

Min familj, jag är evigt tacksam för allt ni gjort, jag kan inte tacka er nog! Jag är snart hemma och vi ses snart, bara afrikas fel väg hem kvar:) Glöm inte att ha utkik efter ny blogg om mitt nya äventyr.

Tack och hej!

En sista broschyrsegling

Då har vi nått Komodo. Segligen från Bitung söderut med slutdestination Bali har fortsatt gått trögt. Från Bitung var tanken att vi skulle följa Sulawesiön söderut för att göra att korta stopp längs vägen, sedan fortsätta söderut mot Wakatobi som är en nationalpark som ska sitta inne på fina rev. Naturligtvis var vind och ström mot oss och första dygnen tvingades vi öster ut, kan säga att det känns väldigt bittert då två veckor innan kämpat oss väster ut. Men efter att vara tillbaka på nära samma longitud som Morotai som vi seglat från innan Bitung gav sig strömmen och vinden vred så vi kunde ta oss söderut. Med vind och ström varierande, oftast väldigt svag vind hade vi tagit oss hundra sjömil i sydlig riktning, på en vecka…Seglingen fortsätta så, med våran hundra kvadretmeters spinnaker uppe så ofta det bara fick, men ofta dog vinden på kvällarna. Några sköna stopp gjordes vid två väldigt slumpmässiga byar, varav i ena byn vi hamnade på polisstationen. Anledningen var att vi avnjöt några väl förtjänta öl på öppen plats, efter att ha slagit på charmen slutade det med att alla poliser (förutom han som tog in oss, han blev tämligen bitter) ville ha kort med sig själva och oss. Efter att vinkat av poliserna, och han som satt i finkan hade vi en ganska hård segling ner till Wakatobi. Där förnyade Jonathan sitt visum och vi njöt av fastlandets goda, bland annat två nätter i en varsin delux bungaloo.

Endel snorkling och ett dyk hans med på fina rev. Vi kom dock fram till att vi saknar de stora djuren då det är mest smått kritter så vi satte segel mot Komodo, där ska det finnas stora djur.

Seglingen hit har gått BRA. Nu får vi tillbaka för de seglatser vi har kampat så på de senaste månaderna. 5-7 knop, sidvind, med knappt någon sjö. En broschyrsegling.
jag(Henrik) kommer att göra min sista seglats till Bali. Under det senaste året har jag funderat mycket och har kommit till beslutet att  ta landvägen hem. Min plan är alltså att flyga till Sydafrika där jag kommer bo
tre månader för att förbereda och planera min resa genom Afrika och europa på en motorcykel. Min rutt kommer gå genom Afrikas östkust, vidare genom Europa upp till Sverige, som jag borde nå nästa sommar. Anledningen att göra det på en MC är för att komma ut från den vanliga rutten och  se och uppleva, även det som inte är uppenbart när man nämner Afrika.

Det har varit otroligt roliga två år med motgång och framgång mest av framgång ändå, vi har klarat oss igenom det många trott att vi aldrig skulle klara, jag känner att jag har har gjort detta nu, jag har snart seglat 24 000 sjömil, för den intresserade så är ekvatorn 21 600 sjömil lång. Jag kommer sakna livsstilen mycket och det kommer vara med en stor klump i magen jag kliver av Arkonas däck för sista gången. Det hade varit kul att stå på kajen i sverige om ett år och titulera sig som världsomselgare. Men att låta det stå ivägen för något jag hellre vill göra, och kan göra vore ju lite dumt. En ny utmaning, Afrikas vilda och stå inför det själv lockar mer. Förhoppningsvis kommer det bli ett lika lyckat år som de senaste två åren jag har haft genom världen.

Jag kommer hoppa av i Bali i början av juli, fram tills dess kommer jag njuta fullt av de sista dyken här på Komodo och njuta av en sista segling, som den ska vara!


Våran seglade rutt från Palau till Komodo:( Inte den snabbaste rutten kanske…




kokosnötterna öppnar sig inte själv


Första stoppet efter Bitung.


Min telefon funkar igen efter ca 8 månader ur tjänst




Apan i Bitung.




Fridykning mot piren i Wakatobi

Segling som den inte ska vara

Från Palau till Bitung (norra Sulawesi) är det ca 670 sjömil. Det tar normalt under en vecka att segla men eftersom det inte skulle vara så mycket vind räknade vi med 10 dygn. Efter 20 dygn och över 1200 seglade sjömil är vi nu framme.

Det började ganska bra med svag sidovind och medström. Vi gjorde då ungefär 3 knop i över ett dygn, utan vågor eller svall. Ett av det finaste dygnen vi har upplevt och vad som beskrivs som semestersegling. Vi var dock snabba med att berätta för våra gäster Jessica och Jonathan att det normalt är betydligt mer obekvämt. Det blev det också.

Två dygn efter att vi lämnade Palau började vinden vrida mot oss (ej enligt väderrapporterna) och vi fick till slut ändra kursen och börja ta oss lite mer söderut. Eftersom vi ändå skulle åt syväst så tänkte vi att det var lugnt och vinden kanske blir bättre om ett par dygn. Så blev det inte.

Tre dygn efter Palau kom vi bort från den västgående strömmen och ett halvt dygn senare fick vi ostlig ström (motström). Då vinden var svag bar det nu av åt sydväst i bästa fall. När vi slog åkte vi åt nordost så det var bara försöka ta sig söderut och bort från den östliga strömmen. Efter några dagar började det blåsa lite mer och vi kunde ta oss lite västerut. Vinden vred dock hela tiden så vi fick slå väldigt ofta. Den växlade även mycket i styrka och det kunde gå från stiltje till styv kuling på bara några minuter. Vi hade blixtnedslag någon km från båten också och för det mesta blixtrade det överallt runt oss. Det var rörigt.

Vi gjorde ganska bra fart emellanåt, uppåt 6 knop. Och även omdet inte var åt rätt håll så kunde man ju tro att vi skulle få fisk. Vanligtvis har vi inga problem med att fisken lossnar men nu tappade vi fyra fiskar i rad. Den femte fick vi upp men visste inte att vi hade på. Det var en lång smal sak, likadan som vi fick över Atlanten. Han måste varit hungrig eftersom draget var tjockare än fisken och han aldrig skulle fått in det i munnen. De är inte så smarta. Vi lyckades dock på det 6:e försöket att få upp en yellofin tuna på ca 6 kg.

Efter tolv dygn började vi närma oss en ö som heter Morotai, dit vi skulle gå in för att vänta in bättre väder. Vi skulle gå söder om ön för att ta oss till västsidan där det såg ut att finnas bra ankrinsplatser. Strömmen vred då och tog oss nordväst så vi fick gå norr om ön istället. Det såg ganska fint ut för ett tag och moralen var hög ombord men när vi nästan var förbi norra udden kom en stark ström från andra sidan ön och vi var helt plötsligt på väg åt nordost i 3 knop, bort från ön. Vinden hade nu dött och med hjälp av motorn kunde vi som bäst stå still emot strömmen. Eftersom vår motor är gammal stoppade vi den och drev nästan 20 sjömil åt fel håll innan strömmen gav sig lite och vi kunde motorera västerut för att komma bort från den. 12 timmar och 17 sjömil senare kunde vi i alla fall ankra utanför en by som heter Libano.

Så snart vi ankrat kom det ut en kanot med två lokalinvånare. Ingen av dem pratade engelska men vi lyckades få dem att förstå att vi behövde vatten. När vi väl fått dingen i vattnet och börjat åka in pekade de att vi skulle åka genom en mynning i sandbanken där det bröt vågor på över en meter. Då detta inte var aktuellt med vår dinge tog vi iland den på stranden och bar den över till en liten lagun på insidan. Sedan bar det av upp för en liten flod, förbi en man som satt och slaktade en gris, för att hämta vatten. Sista biten fick vi gå eftersom det var för grunt. Vid det här laget hade vi ett följe på över 20 personer. Ingen kunde engelska.

Efter att ha tagit ut vattnet till båten åkte vi in till byn. Där lyckades vi, trots kommunikationssvårigheter, växla en tjugodollarsedel till Indonesiska Rupiah och köpa oss varsin välförtjänt öl. Denna drack vi hos en lokal snubbe vid namn Jordan vars familj öste mat över oss i flera omgångar. De skickade även med potatis, chili, bananer, lime och sjögräs för oss att tillaga på båten.

Nästa dag kom Jordan ut med frukost innan vi hämtade mer vatten. Vi passade även på att tvätta kläder och oss själva i ån. Sedan bar det av mot Bitung igen i vad som skulle bli en något bättre segling.

Återigen hade vi sidovind och gjorde ett par knop åt rätt håll. Trots motström denna gång. Det höll dock inte så länge och det blev stiltje. I flera dygn var vi nu överlyckliga om vi gjorde över 2 knop. En halv dag blåste det tillräckligt för att köra spinnaker. Då gjorde vi 3 knop som bäst. Efter fyra dygn och 130 tillryggalagda sjömil började det blåsa lite. Motvind så klart. Hur som helst hade vi en bra natts segling och på morgonen efter vred vinden åt rätt håll och strömmen vände till vår fördel. Detta var alltså en lördag morgon och med 30 sjömil kvar vankades det öl. Med en fart på 5 knop var vi nu på väg mot Lembeh sund. Precis vid inloppet och med bara 10 sjömil kvar tog det stopp. Återigen hade vädergudarna bestämt sig för att jävlas med oss. Det blåste upp över 15 m/s och motvind så klart. Eftersom strömmen var med oss blev vågorna ganska dryga och vi gjorde som bäst 2 knop med motor och fulla segel, fast inte åt rätt håll. Detta höll i sig i ett par timmar och vi gick från att tro på ankomst lördag till att tro på ett par dygn till till havs.

Vi kämpade och svor i ett par timmar och till slut minskade vinden och vi kunde ta oss in till Bitung och ankra. Som sagt tog det 10 dygn och 500 sjömil mer än väntat men nu sitter vi i alla fall här med en öl i hand!

Palau, mest i bilder

Lagom till att Henrik kom ut från sjukhuset fick vi två nya besättningmedlemmar på Arkona II, Jonathan Wingård och Jessica Segerberg. Några dagar efter de ankom drog vi iväg för att dyka. Eftersom ingen av dem hade dykcertifikat körde vi några provdyk först. Det mesta vi gjorde av intresse i Palau kommer vi visa i form av bilder och inte tjata så mycket. Nu kommer bilderna!




virgin blue hole, en grotta…


Napoleon wrasse, nära är grejjen 


dingefärd efter dykning i världsklass




Välkända rock island i Palau




Hajen, syns inte, men det är bra strömt vid detta dyk, vi sitter fastkrokgade i revet